If you own a powerboat, the two greatest risks are breaking down at sea, and setting alight to yourself. Ideally, boats cruising offshore should be fitted with twin engine installations. However, this does not absolutely guarantee reliability. Many installations are fed by a common fuel system, and water or dirt in the tank could promptly bring both engines to a stop.

In some cases a common electrical system could have the same effect. To ensure genuine twin engine reliability it is essential that each engine is fed by an independent fuel system and tank. Wiring should also be totally independent, running from separate batteries. These are important points when choosing a boat.

If your boat does not have twin engines, then you must be extremely careful before putting out to sea. If at all possible try to cruise in company. You should always carry an emergency radio. Some owners are able to attach an outboard bracket to their boats, and carry an standby outboard, that will get them home if trouble occurs.

The prospect of a fire on board is extremely frightening. While the hull is designed to prevent water getting in, it also prevents explosive fumes getting Out. These fumes are heavier than air, and will lurk for a very long time in the bilge. Obviously the greatest danger lies with gasoline engines.

Another critical time is when he boat is being fuelled up. I am often appalled at the off-hand manner with which this is done. Always close all hatches before the operation starts, do not smoke, and be extremely careful to prevent fuel splashing about. Here good tank venting is important to prevent blowback up the pipe

Sail in safety

Sailing boats are, as a general rule, less likely to break than powerboats. If the yacht also has an engine, then you have two sources of power to get you home. However, sailing types are usually much less careful about engine maintenance, reluctantly co­habiting with that oily smelly thing lurking out of sight in the bilges.

Spars and rigging must be thoroughly checked at regular intervals. Examine the mast and spars for any sign of corrosion and pitting. Danger points are attachments for halyard winches and points of exit for internal halyards. Here different metals are in close contact, and this is likely to cause electrolysis. If your mast, is stepped on the keel, check the gaiter sealing the gap between the mast and coachroof. Here water can be held for long periods of time, eventually eating through the mast.

Most mast failures are due to broken standing rigging. Check all attachment points on the mast and hull, for signs of corrosion or fracture. If your rigging is galvanized ensure that no rusting has taken place. Look carefully for broken strands or kinking, that may not

One ‘classic’ I must mention, is to carry a spare reefing handle.

Deck fittings are another point of weakness. Ensure that fastenings are not corroded, cleats are well fixed, and that winches are in good working order.

All boats that put out to sea, must be sound in all respects. Leaks generally become torrents when the going becomes heavy, so fix them when they are leaks. Carefully examine keel, propeller and rudder fixings for signs of corrosion. If possible carry an emergency steering arrangement, and if a sailboat, a spare tiller.

All boats should carry a comprehensive tool kit to deal with any foreseeable problem. ‘It is quite useless having tools, if when you need them, they are found to be all rusted up. Make sure that they are kept well oiled and dry.

Finally, if you cook with gas on board, make sure that the equipment is properly installed and always make sure it is turned off at the bottle as soon as you have finished with it.

Many ‘safety’ items are sold on the market, such as distress flares liferafts and so on. Such equipment is vital on board but real safety comes from the proper understanding of your boat, and the knowledge that it will not let you down.